Burda Leather Odyssey

Burda coat 5

It’s finally done! No more reading and re-reading the instructions. No more hand wringing and worrying about ruining my leather. I finally finished this massive project. So many mis-steps (although minor) along this process…first, I should have completed a FULL mock version of this project first instead of only partially completing a mock. Big, no HUGE mistake! Although, I’ve developed a great deal of patience since I’ve been sewing, I still have no patience when it comes to doing a full muslin. The very steps I didn’t do on the muslin are of course, where I encountered my issues! Like topstitching the side seams too early! All other seams in previous steps instructed (me) to topstitch immediately after sewing. So, of course, I ASSumed I needed to topstitch immediately after sewing the side seams WRONG! Right there in black and white, a few steps ahead, it states to topstitch sides after attaching lining to bottom panels. Then, topstitch all in one continuous seam. Damn! lesson learned! This mis-step created unnecessary bulk where the panels and side seams meet.
Next issue: the pattern piece shows the lining cut on a narrower angle than the leather. This time I should NOT have followed this instruction because my neckline and shoulder edges did not line up. I ended up having to add approximately four 6 inch inserts to the lining!

inserts added to lining

The panels actually look like a design element or at least that’s what I’m calling them! After the panel addition, the neckline and armhole edges are now aligned.
Another issue I encountered: the pattern calls for faux fur but I was using the real stuff so it was difficult to figure out which way to attach it to the lining (right side to right side, right side to wrong side, fur inside out on right side of lining). After attempting all of the above, mom and I figured out it was the last option!

Treading on, I had to decide what to do about the neckline since I wanted the fur collar detached. I didn’t want the raw edge of the neckline showing so I added a facing.

added facing.

In hindsight, I wish I would have left the raw edge because it’s way too much bulk around the neckline.


There’s no way my machine would topstitch that thickness. I took it to a local shoe repair thinking they would have a heavy duty machine but they didn’t. I may take it to an alteration shop next. I think it would give it a more finished look.
In the meantime, I’ve given it a test run and it feels amazing to wear! The fleece (unfortunately, I couldn’t find a brown fleece) provides warmth against the elements and its stylish. I am so full of myself right about now! Fair warming, I will be posting this project on Pattern Review, Burda Style, Sew Much Talent, Face…

A shout out to Cliobklyn for her amazing review on her leather project which I studied like a Holy Grail!

Sewing Patterns – Pattern Reviews for BurdaStyle Magazine Pattern – 07-2010-118 Peplum Jacket – Sewing & Sewing Pattern Reviews at PatternReview.com.

Burda coat 3

Burda coat_1

Burda coat backBurda no collar


14 thoughts on “Burda Leather Odyssey

  1. Amazing! You perseverance paid off, and now you have this very stylish piece 🙂

  2. OMG! This is outstanding!! You will have this beautiful jacket forever! Just fabulous and so impressive!

  3. Wow! Fantastic job. Your review at PR led me here to your blog. Really great looking jacket.

  4. Girl, you’re jacket is bad a**! Despite the obstacles that you encountered, this jacket is a knock out! Two snaps up!

  5. Wow. absolutely georgeous.

  6. oh….oh….just…..oh! I just got a static burn trying to pet the screen! You’d better lock this baby up at night!!!

  7. Wowzer…. That jacket is Fierce.. You did an outstanding job.. Awesome!

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